We left Tunis on a high. Staying in Tunisia’s capital city was just what we needed after a chaotic month in Egypt. If I had to give Tunis one word, it would be “pleasant.” Even though it was winter, it was never too cold. I could walk down the street unnoticed. Grey cloudy strolls along the beach made my heart so happy. I even got some of the best manicures I’ve ever had in La Marsa (the neighborhood where we stayed in Tunis).
During that month in Tunis, we had a French Canadian friend come to visit, and the three of us ventured out for a 7-day road trip around the country. We saw the desert, a few oases, ancient Berber and Amazigh villages, Roman ruins, and several Star Wars filming sites. Another high. Despite that small pole I hit in the Mos Espa “parking lot” with the rental car. Oops. Luckily my credit card has car rental insurance.
Our second month in Tunisia was spent in Sousse. After an amazing month in Tunis, Sousse had a lot to live up to.
One Month in Sousse
Sousse is Tunisia’s 3rd largest city after Tunis and Sfax. It sits along the east coast of Tunisia and is known for its beaches and UNESCO World Heritage Medina. Even though our apartment in Tunis was a literal 2-minute walk to the beach, I was excited to spend the month in a more ‘beachy city” vibe.
Ramadan in Sousse
The thing is, our month in Sousse happened to coincide with the month of Ramadan, which began just 3 days after we arrived. If you’re unfamiliar with Ramadan, it is a month of fasting for those who are part of the Muslim faith. It is meant to remind people of those less fortunate who can’t eat every day. There are 5 pillars of Islam, and fasting during Ramadan is one of them.
Because the majority of the population here is Muslim, and Muslims can’t eat or drink from sunrise to sunset, most restaurants, food stalls, etc. shut down. This meant we were not able to see Sousse in a “regular” way. We spent a lot of time at home cooking and working. But I’ll be honest, I missed that Tunisian street food. I’ve grown to love bambaloni (sugary fried donuts), kafteji (like a spicy salad with egg, tuna, harissa, eggplant), and mlawi (similar to a shwarma).
Sousse Day Trips
During this month, I also put in a concerted effort to see the surrounding towns on short day trips. Art was less interested, so I did a lot of solo traveling around the coastal towns of Mahdia, Hergla, and Hammamet. I also did a day trip to Kairouan, the holiest city in Tunisia (also the first Islamic city in North Africa), and the 4th holiest city in Islam, after Mecca, Medina, and Jerusalem.
Sousse Frustration
As you have been able to see so far from these newsletters, or if you follow me on social media, I have been loving Tunisia so far. I’ve been loving Tunisia so much, that I’ve started to imagine spending months or even years here. But unfortunately, during my time in Sousse, my Tunisia love affair started to fizzle a little.
The first time it happened, I blew it off. Some crazy young guy. But now it has happened so many times, that it’s hard to see these experiences as a “one-off.”
On my second day in Sousse, I took a walk down to the beach. As I brushed the sand off my toes to start walking back home, a guy, about 19 years old, came up to me to ask for my Instagram. We had never interacted or spoken before. But he saw that I was a foreigner, so he walked past me, then turned around and came back to ask me for my contact info. I said no and started to walk home. He followed me, begging now. “Please, Instagram, please tell me. What your name.?Where you from? You have Instragram?”
For ten minutes, he followed me down the street begging. I kept stopping, telling him no, leave me alone. I filmed him. I texted local friends to tell them where I was and what was happening. I started to feel scared. Finally, he turned around and went back to the beach. I walked away as fast as I could, but a few minutes later I saw him coming back looking around (presumably for me) so I ran towards the crowds and hid among them until I could make my way home.
Throughout the next few weeks, more versions of this scenario happened every time I went near the beach, and I could no longer see it as one crazy guy. It started to feel like every man felt entitled to me, my time, my personal information, my space. In this peaceful beach destination, I was not allowed peace.
Perhaps I’m in the disorientation phase of culture shock, but I feel so disappointed. I hate that so many men (I’m not saying all men, obviously) have so expertly begun to tear away at this immense love I felt for Tunisia.
I don’t say this to turn you away from visiting Tunisia. I hope you do visit. This country has so many amazing things, people, food, etc. I just want to share my personal experience, and the reality of life as a female solo traveler.
What the Future Looks Like
My time in Tunisia is nearing its end. I have just one more week in this country. It’s hard to imagine leaving, now that I’ve been here for two months, and being here feels so normal. But I’m headed back to the US for the North American summer. I’ll be visiting some friends in the Baltimore/DC area, and visiting family in California. I will then spend the rest of the summer in Boulder where I’ll continue to organize myself and catch up on all these Tunisia and Egypt blog posts I need to get to. That, in addition to more hiking, good food, and the best craft beer!
For the fall, I’ve got my eye on going back to Argentina. Let’s see how that materializes!
Tunisia Blog Posts
Because our month in Sousse coincided with the month of Ramadan, lots of things are closed. That means lots of time spent at home. But very productive time! Here are a few Tunisia guides I’ve written so far:
13 Things to Do in Kairouan: Tunisia’s Holy City
What to See in Hergla: Simple Sousse Day Trip
Visit Monastir Tunisia: Easy Sousse Day Trip
I have many more Tunisia guides on the blog that will be released over the next month for the cities of Tunis, Sousse, Mahdia, Hammamet, and even a post about the Star Wars filming locations.
Tunis Thatch Guide
I spent a full month in Tunis and I got to know this capital city pretty well. I’ve created a guide on the Thatch app with dozens of recommendations on where to go, what to see, where and what to eat, etc. The guide is organized by neighborhoods to help you orient yourself better.
If my time in Tunisia has inspired you, maybe you’re ready to take a trip yourself? If you’re thinking about heading to Tunisia in the future, near or far, get your guide now!
I’m offering 20% off this Tunis Thatch guide for the month of April only to those who read this newsletter. Use the discount code: NPTSTUNIS
Argentina Trips with Trova Trip
As my time in Tunisia winds down, I can’t get Argentina out of my mind. Those Patagonian mountains and northern red rock formations are consistent intruders in my mind. One of the ways I’ve been dreaming of Argentina is by leading group trips. There is a company called Trova Trip that can help make that dream a reality.
I’m just 13 surveys away from having the chance to chat with a representative from Trova Trips about leading a trip. If you have 5-10 minutes to spare, I would be so grateful if you could fill out this survey. You’re not locked into the trip if you fill out the survey. Even if you don’t want to go, helping me reach the 50 qualified surveys is a big help!
In order for the survey to be considered valid, you just need to select that you are willing to spend over $2000 on a trip. You can select any countries that you might be interested in for a trip. But of course, the more people who also select Argentina, the more likely it will be that we can take a Patagonia hiking trip together. THANK YOU!
Have you Been Thinking About a Consultation?
Since I started offering consultations in early 2023, I have had the chance to meet so many of you ‘in person,’ which has been amazing. I love hearing about your plans for traveling to or moving to Argentina. It makes me so excited to be able to share my knowledge of a place I love so much with you! I have even been able to connect with some of you over social media, and it makes my heart warm to see you living your best Argentine lives, and travels to other places.
Starting this month, I am increasing the prices for consultations. A one-hour consultation will now be $60, and a 30-minute consultation will increase to $35. That said, I am offering the previous prices for this month only (60 min, $55; 30 min, $30), for anyone who reads this newsletter. Just make sure to add “April newsletter” in your note on Venmo or Paypal, so I’ll know. If you have been considering a consultation, this is your sign to pull the trigger.
Save Yourself a Headache and Get Insured
The thing that keeps me sane is having travel medical insurance. That way I know that no matter what happens, at least my healthcare is covered!
When I travel, I use SafetyWing. It’s a travel medical insurance company that was created by nomads for nomads. People often ask me which company I use, and my answer is always this- SafetyWing!
THANK YOU
Thank you so much to each and every one of you who read this newsletter and support me and my work. Thank you for reading my words and watching my videos, buying me coffee and donating to my blog. I truly appreciate all your continued support and encouragement.
One more month left in Tunisia, then back to the US while I focus on my blog and gear up for my potential return to Argentina after 2 years!